James Hemings: The Enslaved Chef Who Introduced Macaroni and Cheese to America

Ah, James Hemings—his name may not roll off the tongue like “Thomas Jefferson,” but his culinary legacy is one for the ages. Let’s stir the pot and uncover the rich history of this enslaved chef who brought macaroni and cheese to America.

🍽️ The Man Behind the Mac

Born in 1765 in Virginia, James Hemings was the son of Betty Hemings and John Wayles, making him the half-brother of Jefferson’s wife, Martha, and the full brother of Sally Hemings. At just eight years old, he was enslaved and brought to Jefferson’s Monticello estate.

In 1784, Jefferson, then serving as Minister to France, took James with him to Paris. There, James trained under French chefs, learning the art of fine cuisine. This apprenticeship was more than just culinary training—it was a path to freedom.

🧀 The Birth of Mac and Cheese

While pasta and cheese dishes existed in Europe, James Hemings is credited with introducing a French-inspired version to America. He prepared a dish known as “macaroni pie,” which evolved into the beloved macaroni and cheese we know today.

Jefferson was so enamored with this dish that he frequently requested it, and it became a staple at his table.

🗝️ A Bitter Freedom

In 1796, after training his brother Peter to take over his role, James Hemings gained his freedom. However, his life was marred by personal struggles, and he died by suicide in 1801 at the age of 36.

🧾 A Legacy Reclaimed

For years, James Hemings remained in the shadows of history. But as we delve deeper into the past, his contributions are being recognized.

🧀 The Dish That Endures

James Hemings’ macaroni and cheese has transcended generations. Today, it’s a cherished dish in many households, especially during Thanksgiving.

In the end, while Jefferson may have been the face of the Founding Fathers, it was James Hemings who truly nourished the nation—one plate at a time.

The History of James Hemings

Did this history inspire you to throw down in the kitchen?  Give this recipe a shot! You'll be pleasantly surprised what a little technique can do.  Check out the video for a visual.

INGREDIENTS

• 1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more for boiling
• 8 oz dried pasta shells
• 10 oz shredded sharp cheddar cheese, divided
• 4 oz american cheese, cubed
• 2 tablespoons cornstarch
• ½ stick unsalted butter
• 1 teaspoon mustard powder
• ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
• 1 ½ cups whole milk
• 1 ½ cups heavy cream
• 1 large egg
• 2 oz shredded mozzarella cheese
• 2 oz shredded parmesan cheese

DIRECTIONS

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C).
2. Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook for 2 minutes less than recommended on the package (you want the pasta to have a slight bite; it will finish cooking while it bakes), then drain.
3. In a large bowl, combine 8 ounces of shredded cheddar cheese with the American cheese and cornstarch. Use your fingers to gently toss until all of the cheese is coated.
4. Melt the butter in a large pot over medium heat. As the butter begins to sizzle, add the mustard powder and cayenne and stir to combine. Toast the spices until the butter turns golden brown, about 1 minute.
5. Slowly whisk in the milk and heavy cream. Continue whisking until the milk begins to simmer with small bubbles rapidly rising to the surface, about 3 minutes.
6. Whisk the egg in a small bowl, then temper it by slowly adding a few spoonfuls of the simmering milk mixture while continuing to whisk until incorporated.
7. Slowly drizzle the tempered egg back into the milk mixture, whisking vigorously until the egg is fully incorporated.
8. Remove the pot from the heat and add the cheddar cheese mixture, a small handful at a time, whisking between each addition to make sure the cheese melts evenly (mix quickly enough that the mixture does not cool too rapidly, but slowly enough that the emulsion does not break).
9. Add the cooked pasta to the pot and gently fold to coat with the sauce, then season with 1 teaspoon of salt. Pour the pasta and sauce into an 8-inch square baking dish with 2-inch-high sides (at this point, the pasta can be wrapped and refrigerated for up to 3 days).
10. In a medium bowl, combine the remaining 2 ounces of cheddar cheese, the mozzarella cheese, and Parmesan cheese. Sprinkle on top of the pasta.
11. Bake the mac and cheese until the cheese is melted and beginning to bubble around the edges, about 20 minutes. Turn the broiler on high and broil the mac and cheese until the cheese begins to brown all over, about 5 minutes. Let the mac and cheese sit for 5 minutes for the sauce set and cool slightly.
12. Serve warm.